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megram - 55JulGTA - Index

Freewheeling
By John M. Smith
Cycling Solo
Surrounding trails make it easy
to explore historic Quebec City
Quebec City is Canada’s oldest city and the cradle of
French civilization in North America. Founded in
1608 by Samuel de Champlain by the narrowest
section of the St.Lawrence River,this fortified city has been
a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1985.On a recent visit,
I discovered that one great way to explore this historic
region is on two wheels. Several great recreational trails
and designated bike routes allowed me to get around with
convenience and ease.
Riverside Bike Path
The Riverside Bike Path,in Lower Town,runs along the
St. Lawrence past the Vieux-Port (Old Port) where local
farmers sell their produce, and Gare du Palais, a graceful
old-world train station with a spectacular modern fountain
in front. From this area, I had impressive views of Upper
Town, sections of its surrounding wall, and the spires and
turrets of the grand Château Frontenac — the landmark
hotel that dominates the old city.
I was close to visitor attractions,including the Museum
of Civilisation, Citadelle Royale, Notre-Dame de Québec
Basilica-Cathedral,and Place-Royale,where the architecture
and narrow streets help to illustrate the city’s history.
Corridor du Littoral
The Riverside Bike Path is actually a part of the
Corridor du Littoral, a paved 50-kilometre, multi-purpose
recreational path between Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures
and Parc de la Chute-Montmorency.
The western part of the trail offered me views of
Battlefields Park and the Plains of Abraham, now a large
urban park. In 1759, this was the site of the French-English
battle for North American supremacy.
July/August 2008 • 54 • Fifty-Five Plus Magazine
The eastern section led me to Montmorency Falls. I
rode a cable-car to the top and took in the views from a suspension
bridge overlooking the falls, including a winding
staircase that offers other scenic perspectives, and the
bridge across the St Lawrence to Ile d’Orléans.
While riding on the Corridor du Littoral, I came upon
another spur trail at Domaine Maizerets and decided to
explore it.The Corridor des Cheminots is a very nice 22kilometre,
multi-purpose paved trail on an abandoned railroad
line. It took me through a more northerly section of
the city, past several new housing developments, and west
to Val-Belair.
I found several rest areas and restaurants along this
route but also some busy roads to cross.I quickly learned to
wait patiently for the walk signal after pressing the button
that’s provided at these intersections for cyclists.Sometimes
the light turned green but the walk instruction did not
immediately appear.That is because turning motor vehicles
have the right of way — a potential hazard if you lose
patience and try to cross before getting the walk signal.
Jacques Cartier/Portneuf Trail
Another interesting abandoned railroad line that has
been converted into a recreational path is the 68-kilometre
Jacques Cartier/Portneuf Trail between Saint-Gabriel-de-
Valcartier and Rivière-à-Pierre.This popular route took me
near mountains, lakes and rivers. I found lots of trees along
the way, so it would be awesome in the fall to see the trees
in their autumn colors.
For great views of Quebec City (particularly of a section
of the St.Lawrence River waterfront and Old Quebec),
I’d recommend taking the 15-minute ferry ride from the
Old Port to Lévis.Then you can check out the magnificent